After a 9 hour bus that wound its way along various roads, we arrived in San Cristobal de las Casas, a city sitting in the centre of the mountains. This city is the central point for all the surrounding indigenous areas, meaning the people come here to sell their crafts and clothes. We became accustomed to the altitude fairly easily, and were happily surprised by the drop in temperature (our jumpers came out for the first time since leaving the UK). We spent a lovely few days wandering the cobbled streets (with their street art) and exploring various squares (with their markets). In the day there were loads of people going about their business but after sunset the place lit up with incredible smells wafting from every direction, live music making its way out onto the street, and vendors walking about selling everything from woolly hats to balloons. We had a great hostel in the centre of all this, where we relaxed in the courtyard area and enjoyed breakfasts in the garden. Friday night meant a band and a bonfire, along with a plethora of free cocktails made from pox (the local alcohol made from sugarcane), we weren’t complaining!
Both days we climbed the church steps for an incredible view of the city nestled amongst the hillside. We followed a trail through a small wood to get back down which was an adventure in itself. The city is dotted with churches, and the convent houses a really interesting museum about the evangelisation of the indigenous people and a gallery for the various textile designs of the area. By the convent there was this beautiful church with an incredible facade (see the picture) and the nearby artesanal market. Nobody hassled us as we pottered about, haggling for some rugs and a few gifts. Later we found a second-hand book shop so I was in my element!
We found some smashing places to munch (some of the best tacos we’ve had), especially the final night when a hot plate full of meat, peppers, onions and cheese arrived. On its side were about ten different garnishes and of course, the tortillas. Another night we’d been to a restaurant run by some indigenous siblings, which was absolutely packed and the food was great. We also found churros and some wonderful vanilla ice cream so had very happy stomachs. We stopped for lemonade one afternoon and sat by this gorgeous fountain and a resident hummingbird (maybe you can see it in the photo). One evening, Tom managed to order a michelada which is a beer served with lime, salt, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce and other seasoning. It was awful and so awkward because it was absolutely huge and truly undrinkable! But aside from that, San Cristobal de las Casas was an absolute dream.
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